The trick to visiting Coney Island, I just learned, is not to take the train to the end of the line. Get off at West 8th, the aquarium stop. It’s closer to the beach, is less crowded, and no one in your group can get the gimmes when they see the gigantic lollipops at the candy store or get a whiff of Nathan’s fries. The sand was remarkably clean, and though the water was murky, when you got home you felt like you needed a shower, not a tetanus shot. The city has done good work at Coney, the most visited beach in the five boroughs.
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